Expat Experiences: Turkey - Jack Scott, Bodrum

Who are you?

My name is Jack Scott, originally from London

Where, when and why did you move abroad?

Last year I moved to Bodrum in Turkey with my civil partner, Liam. I was a petty bureaucrat for 30 years gently ascending a career ladder to middle management, middle income and a middling suburban terrace; comfortable, secure and passionately dissatisfying. We thought it high time to take a break from our labours, put our feet up and watch the pansies grow while we were young enough to enjoy it.


What challenges did you face during the move?

I have to admit that the move was relatively painless. We had done a fair amount of research beforehand and concocted a bells and whistles plan to ensure our momentous decision didn’t lead to certain penury. We were lucky enough to meet fellow expats who helped us enormously. Saying farewell to family and friends was extremely hard but we keep in regular touch and visit London every few months.


How did you find somewhere to live?

Bodrum was the bookie’s favourite from the start, an urbane, liberal oasis where we could live safely and unmolested. We briefly entertained the notion of living in Kas on the Turkuaz Coast where we had honeymooned. Kas is a sparkling Bohemian jewel, surrounded by a pristine hinterland that has been mercifully spared the worst excesses of mass tourism. But, its glorious isolation, protected by a wilting three hour drive from the nearest international airport, means that the town is effectively closed out of season and lacks those dull but essential full time services we all need to live in the

Read more: www.expatfocus.com/expatriate-turkey-experiences-bodrum-jack-scott

Expat Experiences: Turkey - Tara Lutman Agacayak, Istanbul

Who are you?

Tara Lutman Agacayak

Where, when and why did you move abroad?

In 2002 I married my Turkish husband and moved to Turkey to be with him.

What challenges did you face during the move?

My biggest challenges were not knowing Turkish and not having a support network to help me through the culture shock. There were no other foreigners in the small town where we first ended up living so I didn’t have anyone to talk with who I could relate to. But slowly as my Turkish improved and as I made friends with other expats, I began to find my place and feel settle in.


Are you employed or self-employed? What challenges did you face in either finding employment or running your own business?

My challenges in finding work led me to being self-employed. As I mentioned we moved to a small town so the 8 years of experience I had as a database designer and data specialist with the Department of Defense did not translate into a job when I moved. At the time eBay was just becoming mainstream and I started selling pashminas from the Grand Bazaar through eBay auctions. After attending the Women Leaders for the World program put on by the Global Women’s Leadership Network I decided to add a socially responsible facet to my online business and focused on locally handmade products. As my network of artists and designers grew, a friend and I started offering shopping trips to visit their showrooms and ateliers in order to highlight authentic Turkish art, design and culture. With all the experience I’ve gained running businesses online I also helm a project design business called Turquoise Poppy for self-based creative business owners...

Read more: www.expatfocus.com/expatriate-turkey-experiences-istanbul-tara-lutman-agacayak

The Shopping Experience in Turkey

By Margie
Forum Leader for Turkey


I think shopping is fun anywhere in the world. Shopping in a country like Turkiye is amazing and varied. The country is so vast and full of contrasts. There is literally something for everyone!

From the chic, luxury shopping centres in Istanbul to the tiny open all hours grocer’s shops sprinkled in every hamlet, village, town and city. From the little old man who sells vegetables door to door to the garish sights and sounds of the local weekly street market. From the mysterious alleys of Kemeralti in Izmir to the smart boutiques of Alacati. From the Society Bazaars that sell genuine fake Louis Vuitten handbags to the newly popular Outlet Centres.

Bakkals are great, really handy grocery stores. You can buy anything from a packet of needles to a jar of pickles. There are thousands of them all over the country. Usually run by men and sometimes by women. Open all hours; in the winter from about 7 am until 10 pm; in the summer from 6 30 am or so until midnight or even later!
One may pop there to get a fresh loaf and a newspaper before breakfast.
At lunch time if one needs a pot of yoghurt and a lemon, just nip out and pick them up!

Picture the scene, it’s Sunday evening, 7 30, your little girl suddenly tells you she needs a new exercise book for school the next morning! Typical! What to do? Dash a couple of yards to the Bakkal and pick one up. While you’re at it get her a bar of chocolate to go in her lunch box and a couple of beers for you and your spouse to enjoy later! No need to get the car out and drive all over to the nearest supermarket. Mehmet Efendi, your friendly Bakkal Amca is at your service!

The photo is of a Bakkal in Golcuk. That’s a small village near Odemis, about 100 km from Izmir. It’s by a lake and up a mountain, so it’s a popular picnic area. Notice the bottles of drinking water and bags of charcoal on the pavement. In the summer ice cream firms supply freezers and umbrellas. Other firms provide stands for packets of crisps and snacks. That’s the owner’s moped parked outside. There’s a barber’s shop next door, with the clothes dryer arrayed with towels.

In spite of all the shopping malls and mini express markets opening everywhere nothing can replace Bakkals. They provide a vital service and are the hub of the community. They deliver to people’s homes. People even lower a basket on a rope from a higher storey with cash and a list in. The grocer fills the basket with the required items and Ayse Teyze pulls up her shopping!

Sometimes customers are given credit and the shopping and amounts listed in a book for monthly payment. Generally no interest is charged. This is a life saving system for students at university far from home or blue collar workers on a tight budget.
Years ago Bakkals always had a phone that members of the public could use. Nowadays they sell mobile phone cards as well! Even though they sound as if they belong in the past, they are actually very up-to-date!

Long Live Bakkals!

Would you like to know more about everyday life in Turkey? Introduce yourself on our Turkey forum where you will receive a warm welcome.
http://www.expatfocus.com/expatriate-forums-turkey

The Ramazan Bayrami (Festival) in Turkey

by Margy, Forum Leader in the Expat Focus Turkey Forum


The Ramazan Bayrami (Festival) takes place over three and a half days. The half day is called Arife Gunu (say ah-ree-fay), this is the last day of the holy month of Ramazan and most offices and banks close at lunch time on this day so that people can go and prepare.


In 2010 the half day falls on Wednesday 8th September with the 3 day holiday on 9th, 10th and 11th. All official places are closed for 3 days.

Preparations for this big event start several weeks before; there is a huge amount of work involved!

One of the first things one notices is that many people wash their carpets and rugs, lots of soapy water gets splashed around! Of course nowadays there are professional carpet cleaning centres that make life easier. A few families in the cities and many in the country areas still get their house or flat painted or white washed before the holiday. This is a time when new furniture or curtains might be purchased too. Apart from all this, the house gets a thorough cleaning, to within an inch of its life! Once the apartment is all spruced up, the shopping can start!

In traditional families each member usually gets a brand new outfit to wear. Some women are very handy with the sewing machine and can run up just about anything even men’s shirts! There’s no problem if one can’t sew though, there is a whole range of places with varying prices where pretty dresses and suits and smart shirts and trousers are on sale. Market stalls, supermarkets, boutiques and department stores are all hustle and bustle at this time.

Next it’s time to think about baking! All kinds of delicious desserts are usually made at home. Baklava is the most popular and there are others, all generally very sweet and sticky! My mother-in-law always used to make her own baklava. She would make several large trays of this scrumptious dessert! It would have disappeared by the 2nd day of the Bayram! She made her own tissue thin pastry with butter, rolled it out and the filling was of locally grown walnuts. In the cities nowadays most working wives have to order these kinds of treats from local baklava makers.

My father-in-law used to help her make some delightful round cookies, that taste rather like shortbread. Made with flour, butter and icing sugar, my father-in-law used to knead them for her. Before baking them until they were firm but not golden at all, she would pop an almond on each one. They were my favourites!

On Arife Gunu (the half day preparation) there is a poignant tradition that most families follow if at all possible. They visit the local cemetery, taking flowers and saying prayers for their dearly departed.

The Ramazan drummer doesn’t let people forget him! He comes round during the day and collects a few tips. I’ve also noticed that these days the dustmen knock at the doors and happily pick up any tips offered! Cleaning ladies, gardeners, drivers etc are often given gifts or cash. People try and remember others less fortunate, the elderly, sick and children. For example it’s a nice gesture to buy outfits for the children of the caretaker family in the apartment block or take a tray of baklava and some toys to the local orphanage. Someone in the city might send their relatives back in the village something nice for their home, a television for instance.


If you would like more information about life in Turkey or have any questions please visit our Turkey Guide or our Turkey Forum where you will be made very welcome!

The Ramazan Experience in Turkey

by Margy, Forum Leader in the Expat Focus Turkey Forum

Mosques lit up during Ramazan

On August 11th 2010 the holy month of Ramazan starts. One of the first things I usually notice is the arrival of packets of dates in the supermarkets - one can’t generally find them at other times of the year. Many people like to break their fast with a sip of water and a date or an olive. My dear old father-in-law used to.

In recent years there has been the introduction of various types and prices of Erzak box. Every supermarket has a choice of them on sale. Erzak means supplies or provisions, so these Erzak boxes are given to people one wishes to remember and help during the month of fasting. The box might have a packet of sugar, a packet of tea, a bottle of oil and some other groceries. It’s a handy way of letting people know you care about them, are thinking about them during this special time and of fulfilling Ramazan duties. Many people have some idea about what happens during Ramazan. Fasting is from sunrise to sunset, no food or drink must pass the lips. The time is also used to offer more prayers, ask for guidance and forgiveness as well try to perform good deeds and practice self-restraint.

Is it all right to eat and drink outside during Ramazan in Turkey? In my opinion the answer is yes and no. When in Rome, do as the Romans do is a good rule of thumb. If you are in a touristic area and many people are sitting outside in cafes etc. having a meal or a drink, then it’s fine. If one is in a street, region, village or town where there don’t seem to be any restaurants open let alone people munching away as they go about their business, then it would be wise and courteous to refrain. Staff working in eating places might be fasting themselves but are happy to serve customers. There may not be seating outside in certain places but it is fine to sit inside to have a meal. Alcohol may not be available in certain areas and again it’s best to use one’s discretion.

The breaking of the fast meal at sunset is called Iftar. In some towns and cities notice that it’s time to break the fast is given by having a canon go off! Otherwise people just listen out for the ezan, the call to prayer. Delicious flat pide bread is served along with soup and light dishes of different vegetables. Heavier meals may be served later. Some hotels and restaurants serve elegant, luxurious banquets; while local municipalities serve free meals and everyone is welcome.

It is a tradition for drummers to go around in the middle of the night to wake people who wish to fast so that they can prepare and eat the early morning meal before sunrise, called Sahur. If one doesn’t know what’s going on, the drumming can be very loud and even frightening!

Another lovely tradition is that the mosques and minarets are lit up with many lights, some even spell out beautiful phrases. One example is ‘Intercede for us, Prophet of God.’

Being in Turkey at Ramazan can be an exciting, interesting and joyful experience!

If you would like more information about life in Turkey or have any questions please visit our Turkey Guide or our Turkey Forum where you will be made very welcome!